Count Dooku / Darth Tyranus


Choosing the quick and easy path to the Force?  Being seduced by the power?  Join the Sith and become a master of the Dark Side.  Dooku’s costume might slightly differ between Attack of the Clones and Revenge of the Sith.  The standards as set forth by the 501st Legion, Sith Lord Detachment will be listed for each section of costume (highlighted in RED font).  Click on any picture to be taken to a larger version.

Please be aware that there are times where I will disagree with the standards and explain why.  This costume has become a passion of mine since I started working on it back in the summer of 2006, and I am trying to make as accurate a reproduction as I can.

The Boots

 Dooku has black lace less boots with rounded toe. Boots should appear to be leather. Boots should come up to just below knee level.

These are what I would call your basic “Star Wars” boot.  A lot of characters can use this boot including Imperial Officers, Jedi, Han Solo, and Ceremonial Luke.  I bought my boots from, then took them to a local shoe repair shop and had them cut the tops down flat.

My finished boots

My "raw, uncut" boots

Boots worn in movies.


The Pants

Black "officer-style" pants. Same fabric as the tunic. Pants tuck into boots.

The fabric used for the pants and tunic is a basic suiting fabric.  Some options are worsted wool, gabardine, suraline, or twill.  I used a black suraline in my first costume.  My first pants were made in the officer style with the leg "flares" as seen on the below, and my second pants were made in a more straight leg style.  The second pants tend to “puff” out over the top of the boots, but that is a lot closer to the picture in the visual dictionary.

Film Used Pants

My "officer style" pants

straight legged pants

"flared" pants

Please notice that the standards say black pants, but you can see from the above picture of the film used pants and the screen captures below, they are actually a dark brown.  I have been unable to find any "flares" on the pants.  I've made a new pair of black pants without the flares and also have made a pair of dark brown pants to better match the film.  Shown below are several screen captures illustrating the brown, straight legged pants.


 The base belt is brown leather, approximately two inches wide. Belt has two "buckles", one on each side. Each buckle is made of brown leather, and is slightly wider than the belt itself.  Each buckle has 5 strips of leather overlapping in a louvre pattern (seen to the left).

  Optional: Lightsaber clip. If included, it must be a Covertec clip placed on the belt directly over the left hip.

This belt is real easy to make using mostly stock items from Tandy Leather.  Start with a 2” wide belt blank (below left), light to medium brown dye, two large rectangular buckle blanks, 2 packs of leather buckle blank covers, and then get a thin piece of leather (to cut into strips), and finally, some leather rubber contact cement.

Film used belt

Version 2

Version 2

Version 2

Version 1

Version 1


Master Replicas OR EFX Dooku 1:1 replica, equivalent looking resin-cast, or Hasbro Count Dooku/Darth Tyranus Electonic Lightsaber. No Rubies saber.

At Celebration V, I purchased the EFX stunt hilt pictured in the top row.  It is a thing of beauty.  The 7th and 8th pictures below are of my resin saber hilt.  I believe it is a 1:1 scale replica since the belt clip fits my covertech clip perfectly.  It is not a separate piece that had been attached, but it was molded as part of the hilt.  I also built my own out of pvc pipe.  I heated the pvc, then bent it in both the front and back of the hilt.  My blade is a 1” polycarbonate tube with a red fluorescent light bulb protector tube inside.  I have plans to put LED electronics in the hilt, but have not done that yet.

From Visual Dictionary

EFX stunt hilt

EFX stunt hilt

EFX stunt hilt

EFX stunt hilt

2009 Hasbro Dooku FX Saber (from

Resin Hilt View 1

Resin Hilt View 2

Homemade Hilt with Polycarbonate Blade

Homemade Hilt


Black "officer-style" tunic. Non glossy fabric. Collar stands up 1/2 inch or so on the neck. Slight diagonal line from the outer edge of the right shoulder to the inside of the right leg. Bottom of the tunic should fall 4 or 5 inches below the waist.

 I modified McCall’s pattern # M4745 from a Civil War uniform.  The tunic closes on the right side with Velcro.  The modification was pretty simple.  I just extended the front left pattern piece out to what looked like the appropriate width.  Basically, I just eyeballed it.  Also, I would suggest that the collar rise up at least 1" if not 2".

Pattern I modified

Jacket back

Jacket front with snaps to attach cape

my sketch of the tunic

Film used tunic


Light brown, non glossy fabric. Cape is fully lined with a satiny material. Cape falls from the shoulders to just above the ankles. The shoulder portion of the cape is quilted with vertical stitching lines that run from the front to the back of the cape at the armpit level, from the neck to the shoulder horizontally.

 I had to create the cape pattern from scratch.  It has six pieces to it, (1) the shoulder (yoke), (2) two front rectangles that extend from the yoke to the bottom, (3) one back rectangle that extends from the yoke to the bottom, (4) two side pieces that extend from the yoke to the bottom in a “bell” or “curved triangle” shape.  Based on screen captures, the cape should be a normal to darker brown.

Click Here for a Cape Tutorial.

version 1 - INACCURATE

version 1 - INACCURATE

version 1 - INACCURATE

My sketch of the cape layout

Film used cape

Notice collar extending up in the back

Screen Capture of back of cape shoulders

Screen capture of front of cape shoulders

comparison of cape backs

shoulder detail

Cape Clasps and Chain

Cape clasps: Two silver-colored "Victorian" brooches, 2-3 inches in diameter. Should appear metallic, which can be done either with metal pins or metallic spray paint over wood, resin, or plastic.

Cape chain: Silver metallic chain with oval-shaped links. Chain should hang flat horizontally across the upper chest, and should be fastened by the clasps just below the collarbone.

For the Clasps, I made mine out of Sculpey, then made a rubber mold, then cast two copies in resin, and finally spray painted using Krylon Metallic Spray Paint.  For the chain, at first I went to the hardware store and got some basic oval link chain.  But then I noticed that the links were not all the same size so I got a new chain and took it apart, got some armature wire from a hobby store to make the small links, and made the version 3 that you see below.

Chain & clasps version 1

Comparing Dooku's with my 2nd version

Chain & clasps version 2

Close up of Version 2


My Version 3 sculpt on the right

My finished version 3 clasp on the left

Complete Version 3 of clasps and chain

Version 3 Chain & Clasp detail

Close up of clasps & chain from a screen capture

Various Reference Shots of Count Dooku

Various Pictures of me in character

Almost complete new costume