Count Dooku / Darth Tyranus

Cape Tutorial

*All Hem allowances are 1/2"

Below is a guide to the various seams in the cape.

Steps 1 and 2 are extremely important!

1. Start with measuring the width of the back across the shoulder blades from armpit to armpit.  Add 1" for seam allowances.  This is the length of Seam D.

2. Measure from the hairline on the back of the neck down to where Seam D will be.  Add 1" for seam allowances.  This is the length of Seam A.

3. Measure from the shoulder, down over the arm to the bottom of the calf.  Add 1" for seams and/or hems.  This is the overall length of the cape.

4. Print out the pattern pieces and resize them according to the measurements you just took.

Pattern Pieces

Yoke

Yoke with Seam A completed

Back Panel

Back Panel Unfolded

Front Panel (make fabric 2" wider than yoke front, make lining width equal to yoke front)

Side Panel

Side Panel Unfolded

5. Fold fabric so that "right" sides are together.

6. Layout pattern pieces and cut accordingly.

Yoke

1. Lay fabric pieces right sides together and sew along Seam A (where pattern piece says "Center of Finished Yoke").

2. Repeat for the batting pieces, muslin pieces and lining pieces.

3. Cut the extra seam allowance off the sewn batting to remove excess bulky material.

4. Lay down muslin to draw the quilting lines using pencil or marker.  Use the following guides to measure out the quilting lines.

    

When finished, your lines should look like this.

5. Lay fabric right side down, then batting on fabric, then muslin on batting.

6. Sew along quilting lines going from edge to edge.

Cape Front Panels

1. To make Seam B: Place right sides together, align Seam F side of Yoke and to Seam F side of Front Panel.  You will have an extra 2" of Front Panel fabric along the Inside Hem side.  Sew along Seam B.  (Gray color represents right side of fabric.)

When finished, unfolded should look like this.

2. Repeat for Seam C.

Back Panel Seam D

1. Using the Yoke and Back Panel, place right sides together where pattern pieces say "Attach to Back Panel" and "Attach to Shoulder Yoke Back".

2. Sew along Seam D.

3. When unfolded, should look like this.

Side Panels

1. Place right sides together, pin along Seam E from bottom of cape, up the back, around the shoulder yoke, and down the front.  Follow pattern piece guidelines of "Attach to Back Panel", "Attach to Side Panel", etc.

2. Sew along Seam E.

3. Repeat for Seam F.

You should now have the outer fabric shell of the cape complete!

Lining

Follow the same steps for the lining as you did for the fabric.  You should have two complete shells - fabric and lining.

Attaching Lining to Fabric

1. Place right sides together and pin along the Inside Hem of the Neck part of the Yoke.  Sew along that Inside Hem.

2. Unfold and place wrong sides together.  Leave the bottom hem open for now.

3. Your cape should look like this.

Front Inside Hem "flaps"

THIS IS THE TRICKY PART!

1. On extra inside flap of Front Panel, fold over the top of the flap down to the seam line to create a hem.

2. Fold the entire inside length of the Front Panel over twice to create a 1" hem on the inside of the cape as shown here.

3. Glue that hem down using a fabric glue such as this one.

Bottom Hem

1. Try on the cape and mark where the cape meets the bottom of the calf muscles.  Hem to that point all along the bottom of the cape.

Congratulations!  You're done!

Below are some various pictures that might also help.